Thursday, April 7, 2011

surf splendor

Ok people, this is another installment of our periodic plugs for the maravilla that is Ecuador, and its developing tourism industry. Come see the magic before it gets crowded and expensive, my friends.

Previous posts have focused mainly on the Andes, but the coast of Ecuador is quite nice as well. Especially when you happen to time it on a perfect swell, idyllic weather, and a personal holiday that makes for a 3-day weekend at the beach.

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It was yet another weekend that made us feel grateful to live in this amazing country, where one can drop from 10,000 feet to sea level in about 4 hours. Not bad for a country where 4-lane highways don’t really exist (yet). Ecuador is a fantastic place to travel, especially since it can be done well on a teacher's salary, supplemented by health research and freelance. It’s certainly better than we could be doing in the States right now. How’s that California State budget coming along anyhow?

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Our favorite beach destination/surf spot. Want to know where it is? Come visit.

So we spent the weekend at a point break perfect enough to rival Pleasure Point, with the added bonus that this spot has warm water, minimal crowds, mellow locals, and a sandy bottom. Sssh! don’t tell. With three peaks to choose from, surfers self sort according to ability and time since last paddle-out (months, in our case). All the ripping surfer locals headed straight for the barrels at first peak, leaving Oriana happily solita on the inside with steady sets of waist-shoulder high rollers that matched her 9’2” tank quite nicely. It didn’t turn worth a damn, but with two paddle strokes she was jammin down the line. Devin called the board the Wave Hog, although technically there wasn’t anyone around to hog from.
S-t-o-k-e-d! (¡estoked! en español)

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Blanquita discovers her new identity as surf wagon

Devin, meanwhile, was out at second peak, avoiding the rocks and crowds at first peak and consequently surfing a continual supply of head-high waves without sharing. All to himself! A ray even jumped out of the water right next to him to say hello. Beautiful waves, a mellow scene, and a $6 plate of 2 dozen shrimp just steps away. What more could you ask for?! All in all, fue completamente perfecto.

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Ecua-skin. This is what three days of surfing in the equatorial sun will do to your epidermis. Euw.

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D waits for his rum batido/surf recovery shake at Negrito's

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O takes down the liquid gold. Looks like that guy in the background had a few as well.

As an aside, did you know that Ecuador is one of the world’s top shrimp producers? Unfortunately, the industry has caused the destruction of extensive mangrove ecosystems, but regulations have prohibited the construction of new shrimp farms and there are the beginnings of a trend toward organic shrimp farming within existing mangrove estuaries. Other exports include bananas, cocoa, cut flowers, fish, crude oil, and tourism. You should be especially concerned with that last one on the list. Ecuador is classified as one of the world’s 17 megadiverse countries, and is most certainly the smallest of the lot. With an area comparable to the state of Oregon, you can actually experience the megadiversity within a two-week vacation. I’m telling you, it is a gem of South America.


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Artxa (Bear), the incredible Basque-Spanish Rottweiler who's a pro at catching a pop fly

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A tropical beach getaway, just a weekend away? Why thank you, I think I will.

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Sorry there aren’t more surf pics… we were too busy riding to document

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Just give him a bottle and put him in his swing, he’s happy all weekend!

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O, contemplando el paraíso

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The view from our porch, $30 a night

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the best sunset ever, enjoyed with a fave beverage

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Oriana strikes a Vrksasana tree pose with reverse Namaste arms…

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…until a wave comes and knocks her white wine right over! shoula seen that one comin

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It was only this funny because there was more wine in the fridge

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waiting on our daily delicious breakfast

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cangrejo stand-off

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5 yr old local boogie boarders don't need swimsuits!...

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...and neither do 30-something gringa turistas!

Sunday, February 20, 2011

This is Ecuador: Glamping

Quite possibly the best thing about Ecuador is the mix of outdoor adventure and hedonistic pleasure. Preferably in the same day.

Saturday
1. Rise mid-morning, having slept off most of the booze you took down at the dinner party-turned-cocktail party the night before.
2. Eat a light breakfast, return to bed for an hour.
3. Get your stuff together and finally get in the car around 1pm.
4. 1.5-hour drive to Cayambe-Coca Reserve, mountain views along the way.
5. 30 minute easy hike in to lakeside camp.

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6. Set up camp, explore for a bit, then head back to the car for a 10-minute drive to the Papallacta hot springs.

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7. Follow your soak with a fresh trout dinner, preferably fried.
8. Drive back up the hill, night hike back to camp by moonlight, 30 minutes.
9. Sleep soundly, no one around but the owls.

Sunday
10. Day hike, 2-4 hours. Observe wildlife such as birds of prey, white tailed deer, and the Andean spectacled bear. We saw the rarest creature of all--a real live Ecuadorian packing out his trash!

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11. Lunch.
12. Repeat steps 6-9 above, as desired.
13. Drive back to Quito, stopping for the best pork chop at Jimmy's on the way.

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Friday, January 7, 2011

2 peeps, 2 weeks, 2000k in a tiny jeep

For our first significant break from Devin's work we decided to stay in Ecuador and have ourselves a little road trip. Ambitions included exploring mountains in the central sierra, meeting up with the Shuar community that Oriana has been working with in the oriente, seeing more of the coastline, and doing a stress test on Blanquita to see if she really is worth her 500 pounds of fury.

Rafael Correa, the current president of Ecuador, has invested a great deal of resources into road projects throughout the country, so we had new asphalt in some places and tire-eating potholes in others. Part of the gamble in the developing world. Roads are being constructed faster than maps, but the diagram below gives a rough idea of our trajectory. The photos tell the rest.

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Beautiful day out of the Andes toward the Amazon

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Devin takes a dip with the Shuar kids in Kunkuk

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From the Amazon to the sierra: El Altar base camp at Hacienda Releche. Nice in the sunshine, but really spooky after dark.

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Nearing the end of 7 hours of mud hiking

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El Altar's highest summit, El Obispo (the bishop), looms above the refugio at 5319m (17,451 feet), Ecuador's 5th highest peak. Also pictured, Monja Grande (big nun) at 5160m (16,929 feet).

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Hacia el cielo

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Laguna Amarilla crater lake

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Having a good time in spite of 48 hours in rubber boots

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Monja Chica (small nun) clears at sunset

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The Bishop, the Nuns, and the Tabernacle as seen from camp

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6am call to worship at El Altar (peaks left to right: El Canonigo, Los Frailes, El Tabernaculo, Monja Chica, Monja Grande, El Obispo)

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The Ilinizas peek out from the clouds as we climb the Western Cordillera of the Andes on our way to the coast

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D spends Christmas morning in the infinity pool, Puerto Lopez

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Navidad sunset in Puerto Lopez

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Round 1: Blanquita makes it through the mud near Canoa (Round 2: not so much)

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D surveys the sunset from the sailboat mirador, Punta Prieta

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cashing in on beautiful beach weather at Punta Prieta

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Oriana takes a new approach to the betty wave

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A nice day for skipping rocks at Punta Blanca

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Preparing for 2011 in Jama. His claws even articulate.

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D surveys his hermit crab race track (they all climbed out), Playa Escondida

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one of the many that got away

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New year's eve paper maché viejos wait for the right buyer (photo by Mitch Anderson)

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Las viudas (the widows) of el año viejo dance for change at all the street corners, seeking prosperity for the new year. We think it's just an excuse for macho Latinos to dress like lady boys. (photo by Mitch Anderson)

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Back home in Quito, burning effigies of el año viejo at midnight for a new start in 2011

After two weeks and 2000 kilometers, the mud derby was replaced with the concrete jungle--it's back to Quito and back to work. Plans are being made for our first group of visitors and we're busy getting our apartment into a more finished/furnished state. Routine, which was hard to come by in the first hectic months and subsequent crazy-go-nuts holidays, will hopefully be achieved soon. We could use a touch of daily tedium to help us gear up for Carnaval and Semana Santa (ugh). Until next time!