8.8!!!

Hey y'all,

Thanks for your emails of concern. Apparently we really weren't supposed to leave Bariloche yesterday. As many of you clearly heard, Chile sustained an enormous earthquake early this morning--with flying colors, as far as we can tell. The power just came back on, infrastructure in our area sustained minimal damage, and for the most part it's been a mellow Saturday in Villarrica.

We're staying in a hostel run and frequented by Europeans, who clearly don't experience earthquakes like this back in the motherland. Our second floor room in an old wooden house was swaying like a ship in high seas for the better part of 5 minutes...long enough for us to wake up, wonder what was happening, sit in bed for a while, hear objects crashing to the floor and shrieks in German, French, and Spanish, open the door to look out, sit back down as the shaking intensified, grab a headlamp and shoes, feel the shaking lessen, and decide to scurry downstairs. It was by far the longest terremoto we've ever experienced.

The Swiss den mother took a headcount on the patio as the Euros consoled each other. It was the Californians' turn to display a slight aire of superior smugness, as we deal with such things on a regular basis.

Now that the power is back on, our plans have changed somewhat, since the trails up the volcano are closed for avalanche watch. We have a bottle of dry carmenere that we were lucky to have purchased before the stock at the grocery hit the floor.

All is well. Shaken, not stirred.

D & O

Giant steps are what you take

With sore toes and dirty fingernails, Devin and Oriana have caught the trekking bug.

We just returned from back-to-back treks in the picturesque Parque Nacional Nahuel Huapi outside Bariloche, and our next hike is already in the works. Gradually, our knees are getting used to this itinerary. Our original plan was to bounce around to several towns in the Lakes District, but we learn as we go, and we are learning that we enjoy spending more time in less places. There are so many activities to keep us busy in Bariloche that we keep postponing our departure.

Bariloche Base Camp: Alaska Hostel, Argentina

We flew in to Bariloche with great weather, but after a few days of sunshine at the beach and on bicycles, the clouds came in and put our trekking plans on rain delay. Instead of navigating soggy trails, we headed to the hippie town of El Bolsón for a day trip with our new Argentine friends, Rodrigo and Leandro. Never has there been a better pair of opposites. Rodrigo is a young professional who listens to soft rock and has courteous driving manners uncharacteristic of Argentines. We suspect he has a clean apartment. Leandro is an indie graphic designer who likes hard core music and trucker hats and would rather hike barefoot. While adulthood has taken them in different directions, these chicos share a sense of humor and childhood history that make them great friends and a serious good time.


On the shore with Leandro and Rodrigo, Lago Puelo, Argentina

Our first stop in Bolsón was at the house of Rodrigo's tios for maté and tea. We even scored a jar of their homemade jam as a parting gift. Then we were off to the cervecería for local brews and a party platter of meat, cheese, and fondue. We were hoping to sneak in a hike at Lago Puelo between downpours, but the rain stopped just long enough for a few pics and a quick dip in the glacier melt (boys only).

After a *very* quick dip, Lago Puelo, Argentina

On the way back north, we stopped at the fería artesanal to replenish Leandro's incense supply. The hemp jewelry was nothing new from Berkeley, but Oriana did find a tacky bracelet with her name on it--first time ever! Had to buy it.

Oriana, a rare find at the hippie market, El Bolsón, Argentina

After a long drive home, we prepped our gear for a trek the next day. With a short 3-day circuit, we hoped to go easy on ourselves. Alas, it was not so. The altitude and intensity seem to increase as we head north, and our legs and lungs are struggling to keep up.

The trail to Refugio Frey started out easy enough, but soon had us bouldering more than hiking. The breathtaking scenery made it well worth the effort, and the free camping was bonus.


Oriana hauls her pack over another boulder, 250 meters above Laguna Schmoll, Argentina


This is the trail, a Patagonian medium, of course. To give some scale the arrow is pointing to another party of hikers. Cerro Catedral Traverse, Argentina

We took a half day of rest before hitting the trail again. Inspired by the granite landscapes and avid climbers at Frey, we took the gondola up Cerro Catedral and tried a top-roped climbing course. We also made the decision to invest in trekking poles, which instantly secured a spot on the list of most essential gear. Other favorites are quick-dry underwear, all things SmartWool, fancy (heavy) camera lens, and plastic sporks.


With trekking poles we pick up the pace, Otto Meiling trailhead, Argentina

The second trek took us to Refugio Otto Meiling, on the shoulder of the imposing Cerro Tronador (say it out loud with a deep voice and a fist in the air: TRON-A-DOOOOR!!!)


Cerro Tronador looms in the background...we'll hit that one up tomorrow.

Hoping for lighter loads, we ditched the stove and starchy camp food in favor of a home cooked meal at the refugio. The cozy shelter at the edge of the glaciers provided everything we needed for our Argentine alpine regimen of steak, beer, wine, and strenuous hiking. Hold the pack of Marlboros, please.

Refugio Otto Meiling, Cerro Tronador, Argentina

After a swift hike up the mountain (first time being passers rather than passees!), we perched our tent overlooking a huge glacial valley and ordered some celebratory beverages at the bar. The pisco sours were shaken with genuine Tronador snow, and provided a healthy buzz at 1700 meters elevation.

View from Devin's pillow on Cerro Tronador

Thank you, Blonde Karen, for covering our bar tab! Refugio Otto Meiling, Cerro Tronador

After minimal sleep in the howling wind, we went for a morning ice hike over the glacier. From the ridge, the snow capped Chilean Andes unfold on one side, with the dry, rain-shadowed Argentine peaks on the other. ¡Espectácular!


To the top!


View west into Chile, Cerro Tronador

Then we rushed down the mountain for our transport back to Bariloche with stiff joints and hungry bellies. Final stats: 2 days, 42km, 1600m elevation gain, 20-25lb packs. And clearly, bigger muscles.

We often feel like city slickers in this vast landscape, but we are enjoying the outdoors and the chance to learn a few things about mountaineering. While our Spanish is not quite making leaps and bounds, we seem to be hitting our South American stride and are looking forward to extending the adventure with a few years in Ecuador.

Up next, DandO manage to extract themselves from beloved Bariloche for a cycling tour and volcano climb in Villarrica, Chile, then head for beach lounging and hopefully some surf in Pichilemu.

Check out the photos below, and the full set (a work in progress) on Flickr.

Big hugs to all! Keep in touch!

D & O


View from Cerro Campanario, Bariloche, Argentina


Circuito Chico bike ride, Bariloche, Argentina


Do you have season tickets yet? Bariloche, Argentina


We didn't get very far on the bike ride before stopping for ahumados and IPA at Cervecería Gilbert, km 3 Circuito Chico, Bariloche, Argentina


Tabla de carne, El Bolsón Cervecería, El Bolsón, Argentina


Cerveza chocolate, El Bolsón, Argentina


Lago Puelo, Argentina


Overlooking Lago Gutierrez, Argentina


If Oriana sees her shadow she may come out of the tent, Refugio Frey, Argentina


Beautiful morning, Refugio Frey, Argentina


Looking toward Refugio Frey, Argentina


Laguna Schmoll, Argentina


Pondering the next summit, Catedral Traverse, Argentina


First campers to the top get this site, Cerro Tronador


Glaciar view, Cerro Tronador


D, Cerro Tronador


O, Cerro Tronador


Sundown, Cerro Tronador


The new camera lens earns its weight, Cerro Tronador


Unguided ice hike, Cerro Tronador


On the shoulder of Cerro Tronador

The itsy bitsy spider

¡hola chicos! We survived the freezing summer rains in southern Patagonia and now that we`ve made our way north into more hospitable climates it`s time to send out a quick(?) update. Sorry for the delay, but we quickly transitioned from city mode to backcountry mode and haven't spent much time with the internet.

After several days of trekking, we arrived in Bariloche in the aptly named Lakes District of Argentina on Saturday, which proved to be good consolation for having to leave the national parks down south so soon. It seems that nearly every place we've been so far could entertain us for the entirety of our 5-month trip, and moving on often feels premature. The Lakes District is no exception. Yesterday for instance, we took more than five hours to do a scenic 33k bike ride on the Circuito Chico. With all the microbrews, smoked game and trout, ice cream shops, Swiss chocolate, beaches and view points along the way, we could have taken all day, all week!

We've settled into a tranquilo little hostal outside of town at Playa Bonita (thanks Kate and Shawn!). It is run and patronized by groups of thirty-something outdoorsy Argentines, so there is always beer and wine in the fridge, hiking boots by the door, and meat on the grill. We are enjoying the full kitchen and midnight quiet hours. Devin's arm is sore from skipping so many rocks at the lakeshore.

After winding down our time at the Uruguayan coast, kicking a wayward frog out of our beach house bathroom, and taking advantage of smokin deals at the pescadería ($5 for a kilo of the day's catch!), we headed back to Buenos Aires for another round of parilla-hopping and card playing with Steve, Linda and the BA expat crew.


Our amphibious midnight visitor, La Paloma, Uruguay

We got a taste of the fickle Patagonian weather on our first day in El Calafate, Argentina with a turismo trip to the Perito Moreno Glacier. The day trip allowed a generous amount of time to view the enormous glacier, but left us out in the cold for the better part of four hours. They say the weather in Patagonia changes every 15 minutes, and we were pretty much on target with sun, wind, rain, snow, sleet, and sun again. More on that a little later.

The next day we set out on our 4-day warm-up trek in Torres del Paine National Park on the Chilean side of the border. We were stoked to have the sun shining for most of our transport to the drop-off at Paine Grande lodge. But not 20 minutes after we set up our tent it started to rain. We both expected the spat to pass by quickly (15 minute rule??), but by bedtime the rain had increased and brought along its friend, gusty wind.

Drip... drip... drip... The storm continued into the next morning, but our mood was lifted somewhat as we chatted with soggy campers in the quincho. Broken tents, sleeping bags in puddles, mice chewing through gear to find the oatmeal. Turns out our gear was better suited for the elements than many others--especially because the one small leak we had was on Devin's side. Urban living in Buenos Aires made us feel like idiots for carting camping gear all this way, but it only took a few days on the trail for our REI bounty to earn its weight.

We heeded warning from the weather and instead of setting out on a day hike, snuck into the lodge with a box of wine. Drenched, shivering hikers came in off the trail with nothing but wet socks to report. In the evening we learned that the forecast was for an additional 4 days of rain and wind. Drip... drip... drip...

The storm appeared to lift a little the following morning, so we broke camp and set out for Los Cuernos camp, 13km away. The first hour went well but the trail was soggy and the weather was worsening. By the time we made it to the halfway point we were in need of hot tea and a quick batch of instant polenta. The cooking shelter was full of mud, mice, and soggy hikers wishing they were home, warm, and dry. We gassed up and headed back into the muck.

As we approached Los Cuernos the clouds lifted just enough to reveal the mountains towering above us. Excited and hopeful we plodded along the trail--a rushing torrent in some places and a swampy bog in the rest. One thing we've learned is that when a Chilean map says a trail is of moderate difficulty, you better double-knot your boots, Yankee. A 40-minute Patagonian hike can take the better part of 2 hours with a pack on, and if you're not in shape yet, you will be soon enough. Unfortunately, our wine and steak regimen in Buenos Aires may not have offered up the best training.

On the third night out, the rain stopped and the wind started. Huddling in our fartsacks we could hear huge gusts approaching from both sides like turismo buses accelerating toward us. As the gales collided they slammed into the tent with enough force to bring the poles down on our heads. Our aging REI Half Dome popped right back up and we braced for the next round. Somewhere during all of this, exhaustion took over and we passed out, only to wake up the next morning to SUNSHINE!

We didn´t know how long the fair weather would last so we quickly broke camp and took off for Las Torres camp. We were shutterbugging the entire way, taking our time and finally enjoying the beautiful scenery around us. By far the best day on the trail.

Camp that night was plush, with a stream, fire pit, table, and soft grass for a great night sleep and a relaxing 3-course dinner. Our last morning in the park we woke at sunrise to watch the granite torres glow in the morning light and set out for a moderate (read: grueling) day hike to the mirador at the top.

At the end of it all we absolutely loved Patagonia and it's spectacular scenery, laid back inhabitants. We could have spent another week trekking around but our toes would have revolted. Turns out we were lucky to have our 93km plans shortened to a mere 48k. On our way out of the park, clouds were again increasing and there were rumors of another storm in the forecast. Apparently the weather in Patagonia does change every 15 minutes... unless there´s a rainstorm sitting on top of your tent.

The sunshine has been plentiful in Bariloche so far, and we are enjoying easy lakeside living with rest, relaxation, and research into our next trek. We have found Argentines outside of BA to be more outwardly friendly and engaging and thus easier to understand, though it has become quite apparent to us and those we talk to that Oriana speaks Mexican, not Spanish (perdón, Cah-steh-SHAH-no). It´s been tough to figure out where we should head off to next. Chilenos rave about destinations in Chile, while Argentines put together detailed itineraries to keep us on the eastern side of the Andes. One thing is for sure, we could have blocked off a year and 5 months for this trip and would still just be scratching the surface.

See below for photos and shout-outs to our honeyfund benefactors. Stay tuned for more hikes, hot springs, and hopefully some surf. No doubt there will be a few more steak dinners as well.

oriana and devin


Beach cruisers, Costa Azul, Uruguay


Sweet ride, La Pedrera, Uruguay


The first of many. We would have broken off the top of the bottle if it weren´t for Hannah and Molly. La Paloma, Uruguay


The 29th of every month is Ñoqui Day, but this dinner lasted us to the end of the month (thanks Ann and Gary!), La Paloma, Uruguay


Sandstorm, Costa Azul, Uruguay


We outran this storm on our moto bike (couldn't have done it without you, Ashley!). La Paloma, Uruguay


Perito Moreno Glacier, Patagonia, Argentina


Perito Moreno Glacier, Patagonia, Argentina


Lago Argentina, El Calafate, Argentina


Amateur birder in action, El Calafate, Argentina


Blending in with the local flamingos, El Calafate, Argentina


Sorry, Zach, we couldn´t find the brewery but did find a bar with huge beers, pizza, and the Superbowl. ¡Salud! El Calafate, Argentina


Torres del Paine National Park from the early morning bus, somewhere on the pampa, Argentina


Oriana's Guanacos, Patagonia, Chile


Laguna Amarga, Patagonia, Chile


Waiting out the storm, Paine Grande, Patagonia, Chile


Drip... drip... drip... Patagonia, Chile


Piles of wet backpacks outside with piles of wet backpackers seeking shelter inside, Paine Grande Lodge, Patagonia, Chile


Carbo load, Patagonia, Chile


This was the best weather we saw during our soggy hike along Lago Nordenskold, Patagonia, Chile


Los Cuernos shrouded in clouds, Patagonia, Chile


Los Cuernos as they should be seen, Patagonia, Chile


Enjoying the view, Los Cuernos, Patagonia, Chile


Polenta picnic in the park, Patagonia, Chile


If only my legs were as ripped as these guns! Patagonia, Chile


The hike is the fun part! (The 30 lb pack is not). Patagonia, Chile


The most comfortable camping spot in the whole park, Torres del Paine, Patagonia, Chile


Tent city, Las Torres Camp, Patagonia, Chile


Dawn light on Las Torres, view from our campsite, Patagonia, Chile


Final day hike to the mirador at Las Torres, Patagonia, Chile


D looking rugged as usual, Las Torres, Patagonia, Chile


Condor soaring above Las Torres, Patagonia, Chile


Couple of the year, Las Torres mirador, Patagonia, Chile


Rainbow on the pampa, Patagonia, Argentina


The most amazing view from an airport, El Calafate, Argentina


Playa Bonita, San Carlos de Bariloche, Argentina


Right on time for happy hour, Berlina Cervecería, 6:05pm, Bariloche, Argentina


Berlina beer garden, Bariloche, Argentina


This is a half-portion of lamb. ¡Gracias a nuestra familia McKinnon! Bariloche, Argentina


Parilla boys, El Boliche de Alberto, Bariloche, Argentina