The itsy bitsy spider

¡hola chicos! We survived the freezing summer rains in southern Patagonia and now that we`ve made our way north into more hospitable climates it`s time to send out a quick(?) update. Sorry for the delay, but we quickly transitioned from city mode to backcountry mode and haven't spent much time with the internet.

After several days of trekking, we arrived in Bariloche in the aptly named Lakes District of Argentina on Saturday, which proved to be good consolation for having to leave the national parks down south so soon. It seems that nearly every place we've been so far could entertain us for the entirety of our 5-month trip, and moving on often feels premature. The Lakes District is no exception. Yesterday for instance, we took more than five hours to do a scenic 33k bike ride on the Circuito Chico. With all the microbrews, smoked game and trout, ice cream shops, Swiss chocolate, beaches and view points along the way, we could have taken all day, all week!

We've settled into a tranquilo little hostal outside of town at Playa Bonita (thanks Kate and Shawn!). It is run and patronized by groups of thirty-something outdoorsy Argentines, so there is always beer and wine in the fridge, hiking boots by the door, and meat on the grill. We are enjoying the full kitchen and midnight quiet hours. Devin's arm is sore from skipping so many rocks at the lakeshore.

After winding down our time at the Uruguayan coast, kicking a wayward frog out of our beach house bathroom, and taking advantage of smokin deals at the pescadería ($5 for a kilo of the day's catch!), we headed back to Buenos Aires for another round of parilla-hopping and card playing with Steve, Linda and the BA expat crew.


Our amphibious midnight visitor, La Paloma, Uruguay

We got a taste of the fickle Patagonian weather on our first day in El Calafate, Argentina with a turismo trip to the Perito Moreno Glacier. The day trip allowed a generous amount of time to view the enormous glacier, but left us out in the cold for the better part of four hours. They say the weather in Patagonia changes every 15 minutes, and we were pretty much on target with sun, wind, rain, snow, sleet, and sun again. More on that a little later.

The next day we set out on our 4-day warm-up trek in Torres del Paine National Park on the Chilean side of the border. We were stoked to have the sun shining for most of our transport to the drop-off at Paine Grande lodge. But not 20 minutes after we set up our tent it started to rain. We both expected the spat to pass by quickly (15 minute rule??), but by bedtime the rain had increased and brought along its friend, gusty wind.

Drip... drip... drip... The storm continued into the next morning, but our mood was lifted somewhat as we chatted with soggy campers in the quincho. Broken tents, sleeping bags in puddles, mice chewing through gear to find the oatmeal. Turns out our gear was better suited for the elements than many others--especially because the one small leak we had was on Devin's side. Urban living in Buenos Aires made us feel like idiots for carting camping gear all this way, but it only took a few days on the trail for our REI bounty to earn its weight.

We heeded warning from the weather and instead of setting out on a day hike, snuck into the lodge with a box of wine. Drenched, shivering hikers came in off the trail with nothing but wet socks to report. In the evening we learned that the forecast was for an additional 4 days of rain and wind. Drip... drip... drip...

The storm appeared to lift a little the following morning, so we broke camp and set out for Los Cuernos camp, 13km away. The first hour went well but the trail was soggy and the weather was worsening. By the time we made it to the halfway point we were in need of hot tea and a quick batch of instant polenta. The cooking shelter was full of mud, mice, and soggy hikers wishing they were home, warm, and dry. We gassed up and headed back into the muck.

As we approached Los Cuernos the clouds lifted just enough to reveal the mountains towering above us. Excited and hopeful we plodded along the trail--a rushing torrent in some places and a swampy bog in the rest. One thing we've learned is that when a Chilean map says a trail is of moderate difficulty, you better double-knot your boots, Yankee. A 40-minute Patagonian hike can take the better part of 2 hours with a pack on, and if you're not in shape yet, you will be soon enough. Unfortunately, our wine and steak regimen in Buenos Aires may not have offered up the best training.

On the third night out, the rain stopped and the wind started. Huddling in our fartsacks we could hear huge gusts approaching from both sides like turismo buses accelerating toward us. As the gales collided they slammed into the tent with enough force to bring the poles down on our heads. Our aging REI Half Dome popped right back up and we braced for the next round. Somewhere during all of this, exhaustion took over and we passed out, only to wake up the next morning to SUNSHINE!

We didn´t know how long the fair weather would last so we quickly broke camp and took off for Las Torres camp. We were shutterbugging the entire way, taking our time and finally enjoying the beautiful scenery around us. By far the best day on the trail.

Camp that night was plush, with a stream, fire pit, table, and soft grass for a great night sleep and a relaxing 3-course dinner. Our last morning in the park we woke at sunrise to watch the granite torres glow in the morning light and set out for a moderate (read: grueling) day hike to the mirador at the top.

At the end of it all we absolutely loved Patagonia and it's spectacular scenery, laid back inhabitants. We could have spent another week trekking around but our toes would have revolted. Turns out we were lucky to have our 93km plans shortened to a mere 48k. On our way out of the park, clouds were again increasing and there were rumors of another storm in the forecast. Apparently the weather in Patagonia does change every 15 minutes... unless there´s a rainstorm sitting on top of your tent.

The sunshine has been plentiful in Bariloche so far, and we are enjoying easy lakeside living with rest, relaxation, and research into our next trek. We have found Argentines outside of BA to be more outwardly friendly and engaging and thus easier to understand, though it has become quite apparent to us and those we talk to that Oriana speaks Mexican, not Spanish (perdón, Cah-steh-SHAH-no). It´s been tough to figure out where we should head off to next. Chilenos rave about destinations in Chile, while Argentines put together detailed itineraries to keep us on the eastern side of the Andes. One thing is for sure, we could have blocked off a year and 5 months for this trip and would still just be scratching the surface.

See below for photos and shout-outs to our honeyfund benefactors. Stay tuned for more hikes, hot springs, and hopefully some surf. No doubt there will be a few more steak dinners as well.

oriana and devin


Beach cruisers, Costa Azul, Uruguay


Sweet ride, La Pedrera, Uruguay


The first of many. We would have broken off the top of the bottle if it weren´t for Hannah and Molly. La Paloma, Uruguay


The 29th of every month is Ñoqui Day, but this dinner lasted us to the end of the month (thanks Ann and Gary!), La Paloma, Uruguay


Sandstorm, Costa Azul, Uruguay


We outran this storm on our moto bike (couldn't have done it without you, Ashley!). La Paloma, Uruguay


Perito Moreno Glacier, Patagonia, Argentina


Perito Moreno Glacier, Patagonia, Argentina


Lago Argentina, El Calafate, Argentina


Amateur birder in action, El Calafate, Argentina


Blending in with the local flamingos, El Calafate, Argentina


Sorry, Zach, we couldn´t find the brewery but did find a bar with huge beers, pizza, and the Superbowl. ¡Salud! El Calafate, Argentina


Torres del Paine National Park from the early morning bus, somewhere on the pampa, Argentina


Oriana's Guanacos, Patagonia, Chile


Laguna Amarga, Patagonia, Chile


Waiting out the storm, Paine Grande, Patagonia, Chile


Drip... drip... drip... Patagonia, Chile


Piles of wet backpacks outside with piles of wet backpackers seeking shelter inside, Paine Grande Lodge, Patagonia, Chile


Carbo load, Patagonia, Chile


This was the best weather we saw during our soggy hike along Lago Nordenskold, Patagonia, Chile


Los Cuernos shrouded in clouds, Patagonia, Chile


Los Cuernos as they should be seen, Patagonia, Chile


Enjoying the view, Los Cuernos, Patagonia, Chile


Polenta picnic in the park, Patagonia, Chile


If only my legs were as ripped as these guns! Patagonia, Chile


The hike is the fun part! (The 30 lb pack is not). Patagonia, Chile


The most comfortable camping spot in the whole park, Torres del Paine, Patagonia, Chile


Tent city, Las Torres Camp, Patagonia, Chile


Dawn light on Las Torres, view from our campsite, Patagonia, Chile


Final day hike to the mirador at Las Torres, Patagonia, Chile


D looking rugged as usual, Las Torres, Patagonia, Chile


Condor soaring above Las Torres, Patagonia, Chile


Couple of the year, Las Torres mirador, Patagonia, Chile


Rainbow on the pampa, Patagonia, Argentina


The most amazing view from an airport, El Calafate, Argentina


Playa Bonita, San Carlos de Bariloche, Argentina


Right on time for happy hour, Berlina Cervecería, 6:05pm, Bariloche, Argentina


Berlina beer garden, Bariloche, Argentina


This is a half-portion of lamb. ¡Gracias a nuestra familia McKinnon! Bariloche, Argentina


Parilla boys, El Boliche de Alberto, Bariloche, Argentina