south for winter: todo bien

Hey y'all

We've gotten a lot of emails seeking updates, so thought it best to post one now that we've come across a stable internet connection. With cnn.com at your fingertips, you are probably better informed about the situation in Chile than we are. DandO are still safe and happy, just trying to re-configure our travel plans around the broken highways and keep our spirits up in spite of the awful news.

Devin doesn't feel the aftershocks as much on his swing, Villarrica, Chile

We were in Villarrica, Chile at the time of the quake, about 150 miles southeast of the epicentro. We were very fortunate to be in an area that suffered little damage other than buckled asphalt, broken shop windows, and rattled nerves.

This was the worst of it in Villarrica

We hoped that the rest of Chile had fared so well, but it looks like the aftermath may have been worse than the quake itself. We had planned to be at the Pacific coast by this time, and as we hear that many beach towns were destroyed by the tsunami, we feel lucky to have spent extra time in Bariloche. We've been counting our blessings these past several days, as we enjoyed consistent access to clean water, food, and shelter. Electricity and occasional internet are bonus.

Full moon and Volcán Villarrica

Villarrica and the surrounding areas turned to ghost towns after the quake, as vacationing Chileans ended their summer a bit early and made a mass exodus for Santiago. The ensuing fuel shortage left most transportation stranded. Without much to do, we rented bikes and panniers from our hostal and set out on an overnight trip to Lago Calafquén.

Dorks on bikes - this is what we mean by matching outfits, Villarrica

We set up our tent lakeside in a campground that was both eerily and pleasantly deserted, and soon one night turned into three. There was enough activity at the roadside stands to keep us well fed--families sell surplus produce from their gardens, along with fresh eggs, homemade jam, and smoked salmon. The aftershocks began to wane, and as long as we avoided the news, life was pretty normal.

Lago Calafquén, Chile

Plush camping outside Lican Ray, Chile. Also included: sink, electricity, and the best shower head since Steve and Linda's place.

While the bike frames were a bit ill-fitting and uncomfortable, we got the idea and have begun dreaming up future destinations for a multi-day bici-tur adventure. A return trip to Chile may be in the works... (Spain, France, Quebec, Cuba, California, Indonesia, Vietnam, and Switzerland are other ideas. Cyclists, please advise.)

Taking a breather before the final ascent, Lican Ray, Chile

Chile is a strange place to be at the moment, as people are still reeling from the shock, and still receiving bad news from around the country. But we have enjoyed the Chileans (and their abundant avocados), and would like to spend a bit more time here before going back to Argentina.

mmmmAvoooo!

So we'll be in Valdivia, Chile for the next few days, then crossing our fingers for a bus to Junin de los Andes, Argentina. We have quite a bit of ground to cover, north through wine country, high desert, salt flats, and mountains. We're hoping for some more trekking adventures (and pictures!) soon, and will post updates as we go.

Thank you all for your thoughts and emails. Please stay in touch.