Giant steps are what you take

With sore toes and dirty fingernails, Devin and Oriana have caught the trekking bug.

We just returned from back-to-back treks in the picturesque Parque Nacional Nahuel Huapi outside Bariloche, and our next hike is already in the works. Gradually, our knees are getting used to this itinerary. Our original plan was to bounce around to several towns in the Lakes District, but we learn as we go, and we are learning that we enjoy spending more time in less places. There are so many activities to keep us busy in Bariloche that we keep postponing our departure.

Bariloche Base Camp: Alaska Hostel, Argentina

We flew in to Bariloche with great weather, but after a few days of sunshine at the beach and on bicycles, the clouds came in and put our trekking plans on rain delay. Instead of navigating soggy trails, we headed to the hippie town of El Bolsón for a day trip with our new Argentine friends, Rodrigo and Leandro. Never has there been a better pair of opposites. Rodrigo is a young professional who listens to soft rock and has courteous driving manners uncharacteristic of Argentines. We suspect he has a clean apartment. Leandro is an indie graphic designer who likes hard core music and trucker hats and would rather hike barefoot. While adulthood has taken them in different directions, these chicos share a sense of humor and childhood history that make them great friends and a serious good time.


On the shore with Leandro and Rodrigo, Lago Puelo, Argentina

Our first stop in Bolsón was at the house of Rodrigo's tios for maté and tea. We even scored a jar of their homemade jam as a parting gift. Then we were off to the cervecería for local brews and a party platter of meat, cheese, and fondue. We were hoping to sneak in a hike at Lago Puelo between downpours, but the rain stopped just long enough for a few pics and a quick dip in the glacier melt (boys only).

After a *very* quick dip, Lago Puelo, Argentina

On the way back north, we stopped at the fería artesanal to replenish Leandro's incense supply. The hemp jewelry was nothing new from Berkeley, but Oriana did find a tacky bracelet with her name on it--first time ever! Had to buy it.

Oriana, a rare find at the hippie market, El Bolsón, Argentina

After a long drive home, we prepped our gear for a trek the next day. With a short 3-day circuit, we hoped to go easy on ourselves. Alas, it was not so. The altitude and intensity seem to increase as we head north, and our legs and lungs are struggling to keep up.

The trail to Refugio Frey started out easy enough, but soon had us bouldering more than hiking. The breathtaking scenery made it well worth the effort, and the free camping was bonus.


Oriana hauls her pack over another boulder, 250 meters above Laguna Schmoll, Argentina


This is the trail, a Patagonian medium, of course. To give some scale the arrow is pointing to another party of hikers. Cerro Catedral Traverse, Argentina

We took a half day of rest before hitting the trail again. Inspired by the granite landscapes and avid climbers at Frey, we took the gondola up Cerro Catedral and tried a top-roped climbing course. We also made the decision to invest in trekking poles, which instantly secured a spot on the list of most essential gear. Other favorites are quick-dry underwear, all things SmartWool, fancy (heavy) camera lens, and plastic sporks.


With trekking poles we pick up the pace, Otto Meiling trailhead, Argentina

The second trek took us to Refugio Otto Meiling, on the shoulder of the imposing Cerro Tronador (say it out loud with a deep voice and a fist in the air: TRON-A-DOOOOR!!!)


Cerro Tronador looms in the background...we'll hit that one up tomorrow.

Hoping for lighter loads, we ditched the stove and starchy camp food in favor of a home cooked meal at the refugio. The cozy shelter at the edge of the glaciers provided everything we needed for our Argentine alpine regimen of steak, beer, wine, and strenuous hiking. Hold the pack of Marlboros, please.

Refugio Otto Meiling, Cerro Tronador, Argentina

After a swift hike up the mountain (first time being passers rather than passees!), we perched our tent overlooking a huge glacial valley and ordered some celebratory beverages at the bar. The pisco sours were shaken with genuine Tronador snow, and provided a healthy buzz at 1700 meters elevation.

View from Devin's pillow on Cerro Tronador

Thank you, Blonde Karen, for covering our bar tab! Refugio Otto Meiling, Cerro Tronador

After minimal sleep in the howling wind, we went for a morning ice hike over the glacier. From the ridge, the snow capped Chilean Andes unfold on one side, with the dry, rain-shadowed Argentine peaks on the other. ¡Espectácular!


To the top!


View west into Chile, Cerro Tronador

Then we rushed down the mountain for our transport back to Bariloche with stiff joints and hungry bellies. Final stats: 2 days, 42km, 1600m elevation gain, 20-25lb packs. And clearly, bigger muscles.

We often feel like city slickers in this vast landscape, but we are enjoying the outdoors and the chance to learn a few things about mountaineering. While our Spanish is not quite making leaps and bounds, we seem to be hitting our South American stride and are looking forward to extending the adventure with a few years in Ecuador.

Up next, DandO manage to extract themselves from beloved Bariloche for a cycling tour and volcano climb in Villarrica, Chile, then head for beach lounging and hopefully some surf in Pichilemu.

Check out the photos below, and the full set (a work in progress) on Flickr.

Big hugs to all! Keep in touch!

D & O


View from Cerro Campanario, Bariloche, Argentina


Circuito Chico bike ride, Bariloche, Argentina


Do you have season tickets yet? Bariloche, Argentina


We didn't get very far on the bike ride before stopping for ahumados and IPA at Cervecería Gilbert, km 3 Circuito Chico, Bariloche, Argentina


Tabla de carne, El Bolsón Cervecería, El Bolsón, Argentina


Cerveza chocolate, El Bolsón, Argentina


Lago Puelo, Argentina


Overlooking Lago Gutierrez, Argentina


If Oriana sees her shadow she may come out of the tent, Refugio Frey, Argentina


Beautiful morning, Refugio Frey, Argentina


Looking toward Refugio Frey, Argentina


Laguna Schmoll, Argentina


Pondering the next summit, Catedral Traverse, Argentina


First campers to the top get this site, Cerro Tronador


Glaciar view, Cerro Tronador


D, Cerro Tronador


O, Cerro Tronador


Sundown, Cerro Tronador


The new camera lens earns its weight, Cerro Tronador


Unguided ice hike, Cerro Tronador


On the shoulder of Cerro Tronador